Monday, December 15, 2014

Bathroom Remodel Part 6: Walls and Caulk

Part 1: Demolition
Part 2: Plumbing
Part 3: Material selection and Floor Tile
Part 4: Shower Tile Prep
Part 5: Shower Tile

We had a lot of polish work to do before the shower looked complete. One thing that we had been dreading was fixing the large gap on the left side of the room. Since the niche side of the shower wall had to be shimmed out by about 5/8", it was now sticking out a lot farther than the opposite side. We thought about just finishing it with a bit of painted wood trim, but we thought it might accentuate the fact that the tile edges didn't match. Instead, we decided to add a 2nd layer of 5/8" drywall to the left side to bring the wall out to meet the tile edge the same way the opposite side did. This probably makes zero sense to you, so I'll just show the pictures now. 

This is what it looked like right after grouting (and pre-haze removal). We cut away a little too much drywall during demolition thinking we were going to extend the tile out beyond the tub edge. Plans changed. 

So we popped over to Home Depot and got some drywall sheets, which we cut in the parking lot so they would fit in the crazies. We trimmed them to size once we were home and got to work installing. I don't know if it's just our horrible experience with hanging cement board, but this shit was SUPER EASY to install in comparison. I could hang drywall all day long. As long as it's not on the ceiling. 

So now you can see how the tile edge lines up nicely with the extra layer of drywall.

And now matches the opposite side. (Green tape added during patching process)

To install drywall, basically you score and cut your drywall with a razor, haul it inside, hang it with some screws, and use drywall compound to cover the seams and holes. I ended up using paper tape for the seams instead of mesh, and it was a tad tricky at first. There are lots of videos on Youtube about this process, so that was helpful.

Tip: Lay a generous amount of compound on your seam (quickly, so it doesn't have much time to dry), then wet your paper tape before applying it. This helps eliminate bubbles that would otherwise need to be cut away and be redone. Not that I had to do that or anything. Twice. 

The sanding is probably the most annoying part of hanging drywall because of all the dust, but once I figured out how to attach our shopvac to my orbital sander (it's not ghetto at all), things went SO much faster and practically dust-free! Highly recommended.

Who needs an adapter when you have TAPE

So here's what the room looked like all ready for paint!

We used Sherwin Williams' Extra White ceiling paint for the ceiling and SW Taupe White for the walls, which is mostly white with a hint of gray.

I warned Boyfiancé not to stand directly under the roller because it kept dripping. He did not listen. :p

Once painting was done, we went around and caulked EVARYTHANG. This includes any change-of-plane or change-of-material corners. Inside the niche, tile-to-tub, tile wall corners, ceiling-tile corners, and drywall to tile trim. This is the setup for getting clean caulk lines. 

I'm going to end this post here because 1) this post has been waiting for followup photos that I've never been ready to take and 2) we are now about 98% done with the bathroom and I'm going to do a series of posts about each custom component (the mirror, the vanity, etc) leading up to the final reveal post. So consider this teaser #1. Stay tuned, for reals this time because we are almost DONE!!!

Part 7: Bathtub Siding

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